PITCH ONE:
The first three pitches will be my leading block, with Jesse belaying and subsequently ascending each pitch behind me.
The route starts below a 5’ roof and the first pitch aims for the left edge of this roof, where the crack splitting the back of it turns upwards and forms the end of the roof. Off the ground, the aid is easy and I’m starting to get in the groove of things. Actually, I’m starting to feel pretty good about this little adventure.
Feeling groovy.
And, then, my progress comes to a halt. At about 15’ below the roof, the crack system I’ve been following ends at a blank slab of granite. Jesse re-informs me that the route goes up and a little left towards the left side of the roof but there are no features on the slab, let alone a crack to sink some gear.
However, off to my right, there are a couple edges and flakes that look like I can free climb for a bit. This might get me close enough to reach the crack at the back of the roof. From there I might be able to traverse back left along the crack and get out of the roof. The only minor problem with this plan could be that the crack is filled with moss and ice. I’ll figure that out when I get there though. Once more, Jesse lets me know that the route description says go up and left.
I look at my last piece of gear, a small nut in a small crack. Taking a deep breath, I reach far out right and put a big hook on an edge. I step out on it, climb the etriers, and then grab the flakes and stand up on the edge my hook is on. I think to myself, “Putting on climbing shoes would have been an idea, too late for that.” I let go of the flakes, straighten myself up, and get comfortable in my new predicament. My eyes look up from my feet to the crack in the back of the roof. The crack does not look anymore appealing up close, in fact it is quite ugly. This ice choked mossy crack is not going to take gear and I am no longer sure about my plan.
Then, I look out to left, back at the slab that I thought was completely blank before when I was at the base of it. However, from my new angle of perspective, I can see a perfect 1” edge a few feet above the termination of the crack. Above that I see…another 1” edge. And above that, yes, you guessed it, another edge! God damn it, it's time to downclimb that hook.
I grab the flakes, and crunch myself back down. I make sure that hook is still feeling solid and put one boot in the etrier, weight it, and then the other, and carefully step back down the etriers. Then replacing the other etrier on the nut, I’m back where I started. From there, it’s three hook moves up the slab, trying not to think about a possible 20’ sliding fall down the slab onto a little nut. But, the hooks are bomber, practically gear, and soon I’m in the crack again. Alright! From there it’s a couple moves and I’m at the nice shiny bolted belay!
PITCH TWO:
Well, after figuring out that little problem, and cruising up the hooks, I’m feeling great! Back to feeling psyched on the climb. I pull up the slack, fix the rope and soon Jesse is cleaning the pitch while I haul the pack. The next pitch is 5.8 and, even though I had taken my hands off for the hooking, my hands are feeling warm so I think I’ll free it! I take off my boots and manage to get my socked feet into my Muiras. I’ll take the whole rack too, so that maybe I can make up some time and link the next aid pitch.
I take off from the belay! Well, not quite. The moves right off the belay have no protection. The key step up is a friction slab for my foot with no hands. After trying and backing off the moves three times, eventually I commit and step up on the roughest patch of granite I can find and reach way right to a great little flake. I pull through, get a foot up on the flake, and then scurry up an easy slab. I get some gear in and then it’s some really fun moves on big holds traversing right and then up into a perfect 5.8 dihedral! Up the layback and I’m at the pitch two belay!
15 degrees when I tell that bitch please.
PITCH THREE:
At a nice bolted belay I tie in and put my boots back on. There doesn’t seem to be any rope drag from the last pitch, so I decide to continue on and link the pitch. I check my little route description in my pocket and it says follow the 3-bolt ladder to a slab. That sounds pretty good.
I untie, clip the anchor with a slip, and up I go! Soon the rock kicks back at and angle onto the slab but, right at the edge, I’m stuck again! I can see another bolt about 8 feet up the slab, but it is waaaay out of reach. This makes no sense. Jesse suggests lasso-ing the bolts. So for about ten minutes I stand there, whipping a biner on a daisy chain at the freaking bolts. This is definitely not working.
How does anyone get up this section? Then I see it: right at the edge of the slab is the remains of a chopped bolt. Looking down I count: bolt anchors, 1 bolt, 2 bolts, and… chopped. Shit. If that bolt were there I could easily top step it and reach the bolt on the slab. Why would someone chop this? There must be a more “pure” way to do it. Whatever.
To my left I see the only miniscule feature on the slab within my reach, a tiny little nub. I top step on the bolt I’m on, reach over to it and after a couple tries get one hook on my talon to stick. I hope. I ease my weight over onto it and: I hear a loud ping as suddenly I’m looking down the rock face, then at Jesse, and out into the talus slope 300’ below. Then with a hard wretch around my waist, I’m snapped back into the vertical face of Cannon. “Shit dude! That looks like it hurt!” With my daisy still clipped into the bolt and 15 pounds of aid rack around my shoulder, you’re damn right it hurt. Back up the etrier…
The snow flakes are starting to fall now. And well, now that little nub of granite is snapped clean off and no hook will stick to it. My rollercoaster of Cannon Cliff psyche is going back down. “Can you get higher on the bolt at all?” floats up from below. Possibly, I can wrap a slip around the bolt and get just a little bit higher. Maybe six inches, maybe only four, but that could be enough. So I get a sling through the bolt and stand up in it. I unclip my daisy from the etrier and bolt, leaving it behind but avoiding another static fall if this doesn’t work out. I can now get a hook on a four inch wide left sloping edge, which the hook may or may not slide off of. I then grab the edge around the hook, and pull up on it and walk up the etrier. And…I clip the bolt! Yes!
Jesse lowers me out and I quickly reclaim my abandoned my poor etrier. I stay in my boots and traverse to the left on the slab and up some easy 5.7-ish moves, staying in my boots, and then aid up a thin corner and I’m at the belay! Hell yeah, I am DONE! When Jesse gets to the belay I tell him “I am so happy to be able to wrap myself up in my parka and warm gloves, and belay and jug for the rest of the day!”
Now, 400' up the wall, the snow is starting to pick up a bit…
40% change of snow.
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